2010年11月17日星期三

IWC Celebrates Plastiki Success With Online Auction

IWC celebrated the success of the Plastiki expedition by holding an online auction for a unique timepiece created to commemorate the event – a platinum version of the Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Adventure Ecology”. The piece sold for 30,800 euros or a little over $40,000, and IWC will donate the entire proceeds to the Sculpt the Future Foundation, where they will be used to help fund an ongoing Plastiki project by the name of “The Plastiki Pod”.
Plastiki, a 60 foot catamaran made almost entirely of reclaimed plastic bottles, sailed approximately 8,000 nautical miles across the Pacific Ocean from San Francisco to Sydney, completing its voyage late last month. Adventurer and environmentalist David de Rothschild used the expedition to draw attention to the health of the oceans, and in particular the devastating consequences of plastic pollution. The ship used solar panels, wind turbines and bicycle-powered electricity generators to embody a vision of a future in which everything is possible, as long as we are prepared to get off the beaten track.
For their several-month voyage, the Plastiki crew was equipped with stainless steel examples of IWC’s Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Adventure Ecology” model, which is limited to 1,000 pieces. The watch offers 12 bar water resistance and the case features protective shoulders for the crown and houses the IWC-manufactured 80110 caliber, which has a soft-iron inner case to shield it against magnetic fields and a shock absorption system as protection against impacts.
“As a CO2-neutral company, we are particularly pleased that the proceeds from the auction will be used to support inspiring ideas in the struggle against environmental pollution,” commented IWC CEO Georges Kern, following the successful auction. “It means that the basic idea behind the Plastiki expedition will live on.”

2010年11月15日星期一

Chopard L.U.C Louis Ulysse Tribute Convertible Watch

Chopard will produce the L.U.C Louis-Ulysse The Tribute timepiece in a limited edition of 150 pieces to symbolically honor the years that have passed since the house was founded in 1860. The luxurious hand-stitched strap is crafted from alligator leather and it features an 18K white gold buckle bearing the engraved Chopard insignia. A chain is also supplied, so owners can wear The Tribute in pocket watch fashion, if desired. Water resistance of this model is rated for 30 meters.
The idea of taking a wrist watch and transforming it into a pocket is less common than the other way around. Having a piece that can go back and forth between wrist watch and pocket watch is much rarer still. Sure it is a novelty, but I think it is one that Chopard executes rather nicely in the case of their new L.U.C Louis Ulysse watch. L.U.C (I am just going to write LUC for brevity) labeled watches in the Chopard line as those that have their in-house made movements. At least this is my understanding. LUC might even stand for Louis Ulysse Chopard, not 100% clear on this. Well nevertheless, this piece is a direct tribute to the man.
The watch begins with a new manually wound pocket watch movement. The movement design is actually apparently further intended to be used by watch making students at the Geneva Watchmaking school. The idea is that for the student's final projects, they will make one of these movement. Nothing created by mere students has been fitted into any of the 150 pieces of the LUC Louis Ulysse Tribute watch. This of these as "master copies." While the movement is pretty simple in form and function, it is COSC Chronometer certified (meaning that it is accurate), and has the prestigious Seal of Geneva placed on it - indicating that it was made within the Caton of Geneva and with certain decor standards.You can see the movement at all times through the sapphire caseback window of the watch.
At over 49mm wide, the watch is pretty big (but then again it is supposed to be a pocket watch as well. The case is done in 18k white gold and polished and satin finished. The design of the case is not exactly vintage, but not exactly modern either. It has some semblances of the art deco, but I don't think it is that. Perhaps there is an addition style option that I am not familiar with. Though regardless, I like the angle crown guard, thin bezel, and wide sized dial. The face is probably enamel, with beautiful hour indicators and a dash of red. It really looks like a vintage instrument dial. Chopard opted to go with a very interesting choice of hands. They appear a bit similiar to other Chopard pieces, but on nothing this classic looking.
When the pocket watch is removed from its frame, the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback shows off the charming L.U.C EHG mechanical movement. Constructed and decorated in the finest traditions of Genevoise haute horlogerie, it displays gracefully shaped bridges with Cotes de Geneve patterns, a balance cock with a beveled swan neck fine adjustment, and an escape wheel bridge with cover plate in black-polished steel. The caliber--which bears both the prestigious Geneva Seal hallmark and COSC chronometer certification--was created by Chopard especially for the top-tier students of Geneva's esteemed School of Watchmaking (Ecole d'Horlogerie de Geneve). Power reserve is 80 hours when the mainspring is fully wound.
In honor of founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, Swiss house Chopard introduces an elegant convertible timepiece that can be worn as either a wristwatch, or a pocket watch. This model, appropriately named "The Tribute", can take on these two guises because of a special case frame with a crocodile leather strap and cradle-type lugs which holds the pocket watch securely in place. The L.U.C Tribute watch is also noteworthy for housing a newly developed and particularly beautiful handwound Chopard manufacture movement.
At just under 50mm, the 18-karat white gold case of the Chopard L.U.C Louis-Ulysse The Tribute watch creates a statement of tasteful grandeur on even the broadest wrist. A precise and pleasing quarter turn motion--discreetly illustrated with an engraved arrow on the backside--secures or releases it from the white gold frame component. The dial is a classical creation with bold Roman numeral hour markers on a surface of lacquered ceramic; the red "LUC" legend in the seconds subdial and the L.U. Chopard 1860 signature below the 12 o'clock marker are intended to provide a connection with early Chopard triumphs in fine watchmaking. Modern advances are revealed in the material the curved crystal is made from; unlike the glass crystals in pocket watches of yesteryear, synthetic sapphire is all but impervious to scratches and scuffing.

2010年11月12日星期五

Corum is re-issuing three vintage watches

To mark it’s 55th birthday, Corum is reissuing a vintage watch collection, along with its most iconic watch ‘The Admiral’s Cup.’ Corum introduced this new collection of watches to commemorate it’s 55th anniversary.
Founded by René Bannwart, the featured Corum watches are elegant and intricately designed. It is no surprise that when the Admiral’s Cup watch was re-released, the public wanted a piece of the prize. Fully equipped with 66 white diamonds and created with black steel, this watch is sure to impress.
The case timepiece that will be reissued is the Chinese Hat which was made just a year after the Golden Tube. The 1958 watch got its unique name as its design brings to mind the hat worn by peasants working in the rice fields of the Middle Kingdom. The 33 mm-diameter case is embellished with 142 full-cut diamonds, weighing 2.44 carats in totality. The watch is available with either a white mother-of-pearl dial enhanced by three diamonds or, a dial entirely paved with diamonds. The miniature CO237 Quartz movement is set to time by means of a corrector hidden beneath the case. Just like the Golden Tube, the Chinese Hat timepiece will be limited to 30 pieces and be available in red or white gold with a leather strap or gem-set gold bracelet.
The second boasts of a fluted crown positioned at 12 o’clock and decorated with a white mother-of-pearl cabochon. The dial is available either set with diamonds or in white mother-of-pearl with three diamonds at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. Powered by the CO137 Quartz movement, this timepiece is truly a must have creation. Limited to just 30 exquisite pieces, this model will be available in either red or white gold with either an alligator strap or a gem-set gold bracelet.
The final vintage timepiece to make a comeback is the Round Golden Bridge. Boasting of the legendary C0113 baguette movement, it is the most determinedly “horological” of the three timepieces. Made exactly 30 years ago, this timepiece is a mechanical genius that accommodates 140 components within a space just 33 mm long, 3 mm high and less than 5 mm thick. It boasts of features like a barrel equipped with slip-springs, a 40-hour power reserve, as well as the solid gold hand-engraved mainplate and bridges. Featuring a transparent case back and a guilloché-work dial which is placed not above, but on either side of the movement, this timepiece allows its wearer to admire its technical genius. A limited edition of 75 pieces, the Round Golden Bridge is definitely a must have for the watch connoisseur.
The rest of the dial is black with vertical texturing, while the sloped flange ring is lined with triangular gold hour markers. The watch hands are stubby, but that is because of the movement. They can't be too heavy, and that petite movement can only take so much weight. The movement bridge/plate is nicely engraved, and I like the design of the case which visually continues on to the lugs. The watch is matched to a black crocodile strap, and is limited to just 75 pieces. So you ask, is it a man's watch or a woman's watch? In this case, that is up to you.

2010年11月10日星期三

IWC - Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph New Watches

One of watchmaking’s genuine legends of the last century from IWC Schaffhausen is now back in a new guise: the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph introduces a sportingly elegant note into the Portuguese family for the first time, with an IWC-manufactured chronograph movement and technical features that are quite impressive.
Times change. And so do boats, to invoke a maritime image: if the model under the Yacht Club name – the most successful IWC of the 1960s and 70s – was a sturdy craft on the river of time, then the new Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph has rather more of an elegant racing yacht about it. And, as we know, the demands placed on the equipment are nowhere so high as when navigating on the high seas.
The legendary name of this unpretentious watch with its automatic winding system and its movement spring-mounted in the case is back. And yet the Yacht Club for the third millennium does not mimic the past in any way. This is clear from a first glimpse of the new Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph.
This new creation – a chronograph with the well established IWC-manufactured 89360-calibre movement – is an elegant sports watch and embodies the best technical ingredients. This makes it a reliable timepiece whose functionality is beyond reproach and in which every detail, however minor, has been optimized. Not least, it is also a nautical precision instrument, because it will not let its owner down, even when sailing in rough seas.
The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph is the most sporting watch in the rich tradition of its family history that goes back more than seventy years, and as such it is water-resistant to 6 bar and is equipped with a screw-in crown and a crown protection. Its chronograph permits the recording of aggregate times of up to twelve hours on the common counter for the minutes and hours and can be reset to zero via the flyback function at any time while running, so that it is instantly ready to start measuring a new time. There are many ways of measuring long stop times. Yet none are as convenient and unambiguous as those provided by the analogue display of the 89360 calibre: these can be read like a normal time display. In addition, the movement with its integral chronograph is designed in such a way that the measurement of even long stop times does not lead to fluctuations in amplitude and associated inaccuracy. The signal red center stopwatch hand in effect also plays a central role. Together with the supplementary flange for seconds and fractions of a second, it allows extremely accurate short-interval timing.
In terms of functionality, the dial appeals with its clear railway track-style chapter ring and – for the first time in the Portuguese family – with luminescent indices and hands. It also incorporates date and small seconds displays. In spite of its sporting characteristics, the new Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph represents a Portuguese that is true to type with its consummately neat dial and Arabic numerals.
The Yacht Club is reporting back for duty in a remarkable way after an absence of around a quarter of a century. It is available as the Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph in three variants: in steel with a silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated luminescent hands and appliqués. Again in steel with a black dial, silver-plated flange and rhodium-plated hands and appliqués, also luminescent.
The most refined model in 18 carat red gold has an slate-colored dial with a sun pattern ground finish, subtly contrasted by the black small seconds display circle and the black ring for the aggregate minutes of the chronograph. This model is distinguished additionally by gold-plated hands and solid red gold appliqués.
All three variants are worn on a black rubber strap with a folding clasp. And during those hours of total calm on board, far out to sea, a glance through the sapphire-glass back at the IWC-manufactured movement with IWC’s double-pawl winding even brings the yachtsman a little distraction…
Features
Chronograph with IWC-manufactured automatic movement and IWC’s double-pawl winding, flyback function, stopwatch function with hours, minutes and seconds, hour and minute counters combined in a single subdial at 12 o’clock, date display, small hacking seconds, crown protection
Movement
Calibre: 89360
Beats: 28,800/h
Jewels: 40
Power reserve: 68 h
Winding: automatic
Case
Materials: watch in stainless steel with silver-plated dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in stainless steel with black dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
watch in 18 ct red gold with slate-colored dial and black rubber strap, folding clasp in 18 ct red gold
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
Back: see-through sapphire-glass back
Crown: screw-in
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 45.4mm
Height: 14.5mm
Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph
Ref. IW3902

2010年11月8日星期一

Bulgari Moonphase Womens Watches

New to the women's line is this updated "Bvlgari Bvlgari" (Bulgari Bulgari) Moon Phase watch. The classic name is taken from the double use of the brand name on the bezel. The dial is mother of pearl with diamond pavé decoration in a crescent moon shape. Opposite is the moon phase display also in mother of pearl. Other than the moon phase display, the complications are simple with just the time and a subsidiary seconds dial. Powering the watch is the automatic mechanical B77 movement, with applied Côte de Genève and perlage polish decorations.
The 38mm case is steel - as the company must remain a bit more modest these days - and is attached to a handsome white alligator strap with a folding deployment clasp. It is a fine luxury watch that is unmistakeably Bvlgari, exactly what the company needs right now. Availability starts in May at select Bvlgari boutiques.
The stainless steel case of the Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase measures 38mm, which is pretty impressive for a women's watch like this. It's elegant, yet makes such a passionate statement. The woman who wears this is strong, independent and worldly. Must be, to pull off a 38mm watch with such a presence. Had this been paired down to a smaller, simpler 30mm case, it would not have drawn such a response.
I love this watch. I've always loved Bulgari anything, but this watch is just so sensuous and harmonious...I want it now.
Inspired by Italian Style and Design with Swiss watchmaking expertise, the Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase model features the automatic Bulgari caliber B77 movement with moonphase complication. With launches such as this, Bulgari is definitely making some bold moves. Then again, what else should we expect from this brand?
With the introduction of the Bulgari-Bulgari Moonphase to be released at this year's Basel show, Bulgari is definitely widening its appeal. By adding more complications for women, other than just bedazzling timepieces with diamonds, I have even more respect for them as a watchmaker for women.
It's almost funny how male dominated brands will take their simplest model, throw some diamonds on it, and call it a women's watch. Really...
That said, I'm usually not a fan of such large logos - on anything - but the swirling Bulgari double logo engraved upon the bezel is just so appropriate. The iconic nature of their name, their logo, their inherent style, creates a pattern around the sexy dial that does not distract but enhances the imagery of this model.
So far, this is one of my favorite Moonphase models for women. I'll leave all "lunar" lady allusions out of here, not the forum, but that thought always lurks in the back of my mind when I see women's moonphase timepieces.

2010年11月2日星期二

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Series

"Limited edition Platinum Collection" in the new members - Patrimony Traditionnelle "Caliber 2253"
acheron Constantin watchV is the 2010 launch of the most highly complex functions watch a concern. In addition to the tourbillon, its complex mechanical features include calendar, sunrise and sunset time and the time equation, power storage capabilities as much as 14 days. This watch limited edition of 10 pieces worldwide.
Patrimony Traditionnelle "Caliber 2755" watch with a platinum Vacheron Constantin most proud of the high complexity of the mechanical function of the three - tourbillon, perpetual calendar and the use of original technology to control and mute the speed of three repeater function, demonstrates the watchmaking brand of excellence and aesthetic interpretation.
Patrimony Traditionnelle platinum perpetual calendar chronograph watch, with the classic 1141 QP model manual winding movement, with precision timing and calendar functions. The movement of the Design Excellence superior, its high performance and impeccable complex internal structure of a chronograph movement produced a reference standard for the field, has used a variety of excellent timing watch, and was hailed as the many professionals The most exquisite chronograph movement.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle series inspired by the brand to grab watchmaking tradition of excellence. Rounded and the timeless classic case design, a symbol of perfection, elegance. Exquisite bezel, screw-in sapphire crystal case back, 12 and 6 o'clock hour scale ladder carefully crafted by silver handle sword-shaped tip of the pointer on the dial, and a structured case and smooth clean lines of the table crown, Patrimony Traditionnelle series characteristics of these signs show a strong modern, wearing a Vacheron Constantin loyal to tradition, but some modern flavor of the brand character.

Audemars Piguet History - Still Made by Hand Today

Audemars Piguet is considered by most one of the big three of the finest watches in the world. The company started when two young watch makers, Jules Audemars and Edward–August Piguet, joined forces in 1875. The official founding of the company did not take place until 1889 but the two were focused the entire time on producing high quality and precise watches.
The company produced all the parts and assembled the watches in their workshop in Geneva. Today, the watches are still put together by hand to ensure the highest quality of the watch collections and to bring forth the traditions they were built on. After the two founders died, the company still flourished with success. They began producing the thinnest watches with minute repeater and created the thinnest pocket watch the world had ever seen in 1925.
One of their famous watch collections before the 1900´s was the Grande Complication, which is still manufactured today. Audemars Piguet´s signature model was produced in 1972 by the name of Royal Oak. The watch is octagonal shaped and found quite appealing to the eye. This watch collection also has an underwater model that is just as impressive.
A museum opened honoring the watch company and the original two founders in the 1990´s. The brand name Audemars Piguet is one that will continue to prosper due to their unique efforts to keep watch making the precise hand-made skill it began as.